He's given up crossing land and was hitching a ride to meet up with the Beagle and his taxi moored up on an island and Darwin got out to explore. There he encounters evidence of jaguars and this worries him. I found this interesting because I know of no cases of jaguars attacking humans. I have, however, been followed multiple times. I never saw the jaguar but their prints were on top of mine. I also talked to people that have come across jaguars. Another Amazonian ornithologist had one watch him at night look for frogs. I was in camp when a butterfly researcher had one lay down in front of her. She walked slowly back and went another way. Jaguars are cool and they could easily kill a human if they wanted to - but they don't.
This is one of my favorite videos:
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